Eugene Hamilton Storer Coleville leader receipt

To Mrs. Pisell 1912

To Mrs. Pisell
Valley Center Kansas

postmarked Los Angeles Aug 16 1912
2 p.m.

We took the Baloon trip yesterday. Saw lots of beautiful flowers as well as other pretty things. Your friend M. Case
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Wes and Elsie Pisell
420 E. Oklahoma
Enid
Oklahoma

Postmarked Aug 24 1923
Boulder Colorado

Dear friends,
arrived here from Denver this noon. We are not at one farthest point. Gone over 800 miles. Splendid scenery
Yours truly,
Mr. and Mrs. B.E. Reams
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To Elsie Pisell

To Elsie Pisell
420 E. Oklahoma
Enid Oklahoma

Postmarked Los Angeles
Dec 9 1920

Dear Elsie,
will write you a line from Riverside California but am going back to Long Beach soon and will write you all
Grand
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To Mr. and Mrs. Melvin Pearl Pisell
1358 So. Broadway
Wichita Kansas

postmarked Carlsbad New Mexico
May 1909

We took the 11:00 tour. We walked in and out 3 3/4 miles. Rather tired. Started at 3:00 p.m. Sat. Cool 58 degrees in cave. I drove from Sapulpa to 30 mile this side of Wichita Falls Tex. Went thursday Waurika. May stop at El Reno on way home for a minute.
Elsie

To Elsie Pisell

To Elsie Pisell

To Elsie Pisell

To Elsie Pisell

To Elsie Pisell

Diary of William Addison Bushnell-Civil War Soldier

DIARY OF WILLIAM ADDISON BUSHNELL

CIVIL WAR SOLDIER


Dec. 10th, 1864, Enlist in the California Volunteers at San Francisco. Second Regiment of Infantry, Co. K. Lieutenant T. C. Winchell commanding Co. Col. Thomas F. Wright commanding regiment. Nine Companies of which are stationed at the Presidio, three miles from town, the other Co. is stationed at Round Valley, Mendocino Co.

Dec. 12, Mustered into the Service of the United States and proceed to Recruiting Rendezvous, on Harrison St., preparatory to joining my regiment.

Dec. 15. Receive Government Bounty. $100.00 in greenback which are worth 46 cents on the dollar.

Dec. 16 Join my company and regiment at Presidio.

May 25, 1865. Rumors are rife in the camp that we will soon be discharged as the war is virtually closed, the question is much discussed among the soldiers.

July 1st. Promoted to the rank of Corporal.

July 4th. The entire Command to town in full force commanded by Lieutenant Col. Pollock. Spent the day very agreeably.

Aug 4th (Sunday) From week to week how little happens to relieve the monotony of a soldiers life in the garrison. How seldom is the Sabath a day of rest for him. With the exception of Drill it relieves him from few of the ordinary labors of the day. Dress Parade and Inspection occupying the principal part of the forenoon, leaving only the afternoon for recreation and rest.

Aug. 18. Leave the Presidio enroute for Arizona via Drum Barracks. Five companies comprising the headquarters of the Second Regiment, embark on the Steamer Senator at 3 P. M. The companies are B. G. H. and K. A. C. and I. remain at the Presidio awaiting transportation, the other two Companies D. and F. are at Humboldt and will probably not accompany the regiment.

Aug. 20 (Sunday) At sea. Ocean smooth as a mill pond weather superb. Had a glimpse of some whales. Land always on our port side about sundown pass Point Concepcions and sometime in the nite pass Santa Barbara.

Aug. 21 Arrive at San Pedro at 10 A. M. companies form into line on the wharf and march up thought town and on to a slough three miles from town where we encamp. Memorandum orders issued from headquarters christen the place "Camp No. 1 near Drum Barracks". Strictly speaking it is not a very desirable place to camp but whatever inconveniences there may be are overlooked by the strict law of "Military necessity".

Aug. 28 A. and C. companies came into the camp today commanding by Lieut. Col. Pollock. G. Co. still remains at the Presidio. Seven companies of the Second are now at Camp No. 1, dwelling in tents and awaiting orders to march Arizona onward. The climate here compares with San Francisco, is warm, but not uncomfortably so, dust is rather plenty, so are watermelons, both of which seem to be the principal productions of the country. Scorpions and tarantulas are also abundant. Take it altogether life is rather pleasant at Camp No. 1.

Sept. 8 Co. I joins the regiment. The camp is in motion today to make readiness for moving tomorrow, everybody is busy.

Sept. 11 Leave Camp No. 1 travel 12 miles and encamp in the San Gabriel Rio.

Sept. 13 Encamp at El Monte one splendid stream of water, excellent vineyards in this vicinity Scenery Magnificent. Mountains surrounding the valley, judging from appearances we are on the outskirts of civilization.

ON THE DESERT 1865 Sept. 25

With the far-stretching desert behind and before us-
Slowly onward we toil with our poor aching feet
With heavens unclouded canopy o’er us-
And the sun beaming on us with tropical heat.

No tree by the roadside with wide spreading branches-
Invite the poor trooper to rest and repose
No orchards, no cornfields, or even milk-ranches
Where the soldier may forage his grub as he goes-

Oh such is the desert that burns like a furnace
A treeless waste of immeasurable sand-
That conspires with the sun to torture and burn us
Through the width and the breadth of this waterless land

Cactus and sagebrush and such scant vegetation
Survive in some places the suns scorching rays
While horn-toads and lizards that defy numeration
Bask in and enjoy his meridian blaze.

‘Tis a landscape that wearies the vision
And wearies the limbs of the footman no less
Description is futile, words have not the precision,
To print as it is this vast wilderness.

The column drags onward with slow measured paces
Oh that the end of our journey were nigh.
Though few words are said, you may read in all faces
"Weary, weary, and our canteens are dry".

Oh for some river with green grassy borders
Whose waters reflect the placid blue sky.
Where the soldiers might rest "until further orders".
Or ‘til Gabriel’s trumpet blows "recall" from on High.

Sept. 30. Fort Yuma is situated on a slight eminence on the western bank of the Colorado River, a short distance below the confluence of the Gila- which empties on the opposite side- The adobe buildings constituting the Officers and soldiers quarters, were built in 1852 or 3 and are large and commodious, and viewed externally are picturesque and pleasing to the eye.

Oct. 8 A detachment of the second Inf. Co. 2 consisting of three companies under command of Lieutenant Col. Pollock leave Fort Yuma enroute for Arizona. Our destination is said to be Fort Goodwin. We get over the river by 7 P.M. and pass through Arizona City, thence on a mile from town and encamp on a slough, the remaining companies are destined for Fort Breckenridge.

Oct. 10- Reville sounds at 3 A. M. and an hour later we are on the ride. After traveling 19 miles we encamp at Gila City, so called consisting of the remains of two or three willow houses, occupied by an American and his Mexican Senorita, together with a few Greasers and half-clad Indians. Gila City lies at the foot of a range of rocky hills, and on the Gila River. Some little mining is done in the hills nearby and the place was the scene of considerable mining excitement 3 or 4 years ago.

Oct. 11, Travel 17 miles and encamp at Mission Camp. "No Inhabitants". Road sandy and rock. A species of Cactus is found through the country here which much resembles the trunk of a standing tree. It rises to the height of 15 or 20 feet and is profusely covered with thorns the center of the tree is the largest part, from which it tapers gradually to either end. Some of them are two feet thick and where a few of them are standing together they present quite a picturesque appearance. But majestic as they are, they can never rise too much importance as a shade tree, hot having any limbs. The only kind of wood found here is a species of thorny wood known as mesquite.

Oct. 12, Distance the same, as yesterday, encamp at the foot of Antelope Peak. A mountain that rises abruptly to the height of 4 or 5 hundred feet, towering in majestic style, and throwing a splendid shade over our camp from 2 P. M. The nites here are much cooler that at Yuma, rather too cold for comfort. Unless with about three blankets over us. Some Mexicans live here, one family at least. Their only means of support seem to be selling a occasional glass of Tarantula juice, at 25 cents.

Oct. 13, March 16 miles and encamp on the river among heavy willows and weeds, interspersed with cottonwoods. Capt. Stewart caught a splendid Salmon. A train of Emigrants camp near, they are from Texas Hill and represent themselves as being "hard up".

Oct. 14 Leave camp as usual at 5 A. M. In two miles pass Mohawk Station. Nine miles further pass Texan Hill and still six miles further reach, Teamsters or Shady Camp, and halt for the day. A portion of the command got on the wrong road, or rather on no road at all, for which they were indebted to Captain Noyes. Shady Camp consists of a few cottonwood trees, standing on the banks of the Gila, and were it not for the dust, and wind would be an agreeable place. McGinnis shot a crane across the river. The boys caught some nice fish.. Distance 17 miles. (not the fish)

Oct. 15, Travel 14 miles and encamp at Grinnells Station, on the Rio, at a nice grove, and a sort of house made of poles or logs set on end. The occupants were two or three white men, and as many Mexican women, Watermelons for sale at tres reals, a piece. Some of the teams are sent over the river after barley for the mules. Our time of traveling since we left is pretty regular, "Reville" sounds at 4 A. M. immediately after comes "Role Call" then follows the "General", which means for all hands to hurry up and get ready for the road. About five the "Assembly" sounds and the companies fall in, and await the call "forward" which soon sounds off and off we go. In two hours we halt and rest a few minutes, and at the end of every hour thereafter until we halt for the day.

Oct. 16, Were compelled to make a departure from our ordinary starting hour on account of the teams being sent after barley. It was 8 ½ A. M. when we got under way and 11 ½ A. M. we encamp at Burke’s Station (an old overland stage station) distance 12 miles, no houses nor any evidence of inhabitants except an Emigrant Train from Texas. They represent themselves as being destitute of provisions and money. They are bound for California. The train consists mostly of women and children. - Pass over plains of dry grass which would have made excellent hay and it been cut in due season. My prediction is that the valley of the Gila will some day contain nice farms and fields of cotton where nothing grows now but luxuriant grass and willows.

Oct. 17. Leave camp as usual at 5 A. M. and arrive at Oatman Flat at 8 ½ A. M. distance 12 miles. The country over which we travel today is rough and rocky. The entire country is strewn with a species of burnt rock resembling lava. After leaving the upland for the river bottom by descending a steep rocky hill, we find ourselves on "Oatman Flat". About a quarter of a mile after leaving the bluff, on the left had side of the road is a small enclosure about six feet square at one end of which may be seen a board bearing the crude inscription "The Oatman Family, 1851". Here it was that the ill fated emigrants perished at the hands of the blood-thirsty Apaches - and over yonder bluff in a southerly direction, they bore their pale-faced captives. Seven of the family are said to be buried in the grave by the roadside viz, the two Oatman brothers, the younger brother’s wife and 4 children some of which, I believe, belonged to the elder Oatman who was a widower. We encamp at the upper end of the Oatman Flat on the river.

Oct. 18. Leave camp at the usual hour and arrive at Canyon Station, on the river, at 10 A. M. Distance 16 miles. Met a train of wagons going toward California consisting of 10 mules to the wagon. Road much the same as yesterday. Another train of wagons camp near us, which have been to Camp McDowell with supplies and are going to Yuma for more.

Oct. 19. Arrive at "Gila Bend" at 10 A. M., pass two teams of emigrants camped on the road. Our camp abounds in willows, cottonwoods, dust, etc. One company of Cavalry (Cal. Volunteers) are encamped here, also a large emigrant train from Texas. From here to our next camping ground it is said to be 45 miles, the whole distance is without water - very pleasant to contemplate. We shall probably try it tomorrow.

Oct. 20. Leave camp at 3 P. M. (the hottest part of the day) and halt at 11½ P.M. at the remains of an old stage-station, said to be half-way between Gila Bend and Maricopa Wells. We pass some very tall cactus, some 40 feet high. No water here.

Oct. 21. After building fires, making coffee and replenishing our canteens from the barrels in the wagons, we resume our march with renewed energy at 2 A. M. In 8 miles pass the "Tank", no water. At 8 A. M. we arrive at Maricopa Wells which takes the name from the tribe of Indians residing here. They are innumerable, or seem to be, and flock around our camp with fine water-melons for sale. They are fine looking Indians and are on good terms with the whites. They speak considerable Spanish and make some pretensions to clothing themselves.

Oct. 22 Lay over to-day and rest ourselves after our big march. Had a thunder shower in the evening accompanied with a strong wind, which came near lifting our tents off the ground, but little rain fell, however. A store is kept here.

Oct. 23 Our road, after leaving Maricopa, for three or four miles was thought one continuous line of Indian houses. Judging by the number of houses, the village must contain 4 or 5 thousand inhabitants. Some estimate the number as high as 8,000. Their houses are constructed of a kind of framework of willows, are generally flat on top and are thatched with grass and dirt. Everything around their town is scrupulously neat and clean. Between the village and the river, lie their farms which are fenced in with small poles. They raise pumpkins, water-melons, corn and wheat etc. At half past nine A. M. we arrive at Pima Villages 12 miles distant. Here is a 10 horse power steam flouring mil and store, black-smith shop, eating-house etc., a few whites and Indians without number. They are the Pima tribe and farm quite extensively, raising fine crops of wheat, corn etc. The Pimas and Maricopas are allies against the Apaches, between which there seems to be a hereditary hatred. There is also a Co. of them enlisted in the service of the U. S. , under command of Lieut. Walker. They fight the Apaches in their own way and in this respect are superior to our soldiers, perhaps.

Oct. 24. Travel 12 miles and arrive at Sacaton. Indian houses were in sight nearly all the way and Indians of both sexes passed us frequently on the road. They are generally mounted on their ponies the squaws ride a-straddle, and upon them devolves the labor of transporting their stores from one place to another, hence you may often see a squaw mounted on a pony and astride a bag of wheat going to mill, or carrying a huge basket of water-melons, to market on their back. The parties who own the mill purchase their wheat, convert into flour and find a ready market for it in the territory. Sacaton is on the Gila and is the last place we shall see the river on the road. Our road to-day was level with broken ranges of mountains on either hand. Water is easily obtained in many places, though it is generally brackish and unfit to drink. Copper ore is found in the mountains, though the mines, as yet, are not much worked.

Oct. 25. Leave camp at 5 A. M. and arrive in camp at 12 M. at an old overland stage station called Blue Water. Distance 24 miles. A mile or so after starting we passed the limits of the Indian Reservation. Upon a raised mound is seen a pole with the inscription cut into it, P. & M Reservation 1858. In 10 miles pass a dilapidated uninhabited old adobe, formerly a Stage Station. Level country and good roads. Our supply of water here comes from a well nearly a hundred feet deep and raised by a windlass. The water is good, being of a clear and slightly blue color, to this the station is indebted its name. The boys have a great time in the evening, shooting a beef animal. Nearly the whole command turned out in masse with muskets in hand to shoot him. Several shots were fired without much effect and the animal becoming demoralized, threatened tents and such frail property with destruction, when a lucky shot from Sergeant Dulin, forced him to capitulate and thus the skirmish ended.

Oct. 26. Make another long march of 46 miles. Leave camp at 5 A. M. and arrive in camp at Point of Mountain at 8 P. M., find a good well of water 70 or 80 feet deep and apparently inexhaustible. Eight miles from our last camp we passed an old stage station called Pocatch, did not halt, no water. Halted about noon, had coffee, refilled our canteens and after resting for 3 hours, resumed our march. Splendid roads and level country. Passed a high, bold projecting rock on our right and a similar one on our left at the same time.

Oct. 27. Lay over at Point of Mountain.

Oct. 28. Eighteen miles brings us to Tucson, an old Mexican town, built entirely of adobe houses. It is quite a place and the population with the exception of a detachment of soldiers, consists entirely of Mexicans. We pass on through the town and encamp about a mile from it on a nice stream of water.

Oct. 29th and 30th Remain in camp near Tucson.

Oct. 31. Muster and inspection of camp.

Nov. 1. Reveille, sounding at 4 A. M. drowns the voices of an uncertain number of coyotes, and causes a certain number of soldiers to turn out from their blankets, to inhale the morning air. An hour later we are on the road to Fort Goodwin, said to be distant 160 miles. We saw a great deal of game along the road to-day such as quail and hare. Also saw a fine herd of antelope. The country is covered with dry grass and seems more fertile than usual. We find a kind of wild fruit, resembling banana and called by that name. We pass a spot where a party of emigrants were murdered by the Indians this summer, the remains of an Indian seen dangling from a bush near by. One of the murderers, he thus forfeited his life for his pains. The Indians, it seems, did not know the value of the money they found on the persons of those they murdered so scattered it profusely along the trail when they retreated - and it was picked up by the Cavalry who went in pursuit. We halt for a couple of hours, take lunch and from thence inter Murders Canyon, then up the canyon about 10 miles and encamp in the slough, good water.

Nov. 2. Lay over.

Nov. 3. By 5 A. M. we were on the road and, from that time until sunrise the weather was uncomfortably cool. We traveled ‘til 1 P. M., then encamped on a splendid stream of water, called the San Pedro. Numerous remains of adobe houses are found along its banks.

Nov. 4. Marched down the river 5 miles and encamped for the day.

Nov. 5. Make a fatiguing march of 25 miles to Croton Springs. Nine hours on the road, water brackish and no wood except mezcal stalks. We passed the grave of a man murdered by the Indians in July last (a member of the 1st Calvary, 1st Cal. Vol.) More antelope.

Nov. 6. Seventeen miles brings us to Oak Grove, a splendid grove of oak trees between us and mountains on our left. One of the Cavalry escorts brings a fine antelope into camp.

Nov. 7. Reach Eureka Wells, fine water. Find some black walnuts here of small variety.

Nov. 8 Travel 18 miles and encamp in Sycamore Canyon. Water scarce.

Nov. 9. Arrive at Ft. Goodwin, our destination, at 1½ P.. M. and having no quarter to go into, we stretch our shelter tents for the present. The fort seems to be pleasantly located, having a nice spring stream running by it. Wood is plentiful but timber for building purposes is not be had. The troops stationed here are Co. I, 1st New Mexico Vol. and Co. M, 1st Calvary Cal. Vol.. both companies of which are about 70 strong each. Col. Pollock will assume command here soon. Here then we may say "Alabama" (Here we rest.)

Recapitulatory

Ft. Goodwin Nov. 10, ’65

From her to San Pedro, the distance is between 8 and 9 hundred miles and viewing it as a whole from the road, we venture to say that a more uninviting country, the sun never shone on. We should say that some years must elapse before it "Blossoms as the rose". With a few exceptions, we may in fact, set it down as an interminable waste. From San Pedro to Ft. Yuma, the country may be set down as a desert, with the exception of a verdant spot, here and there, on that portion of the road nearest the seaboard.

From Ft. Yuma to Tucson the country "gets no better fast" and cannot be called an improvement on that west of the Colorado. From Tucson to this post it is somewhat more inviting, the valleys and lowlands are well lined with verdure and even the mountains up to their summits are dotted with bunch-grass. Wild animals, denominated "game" are more abundant that heretofore such as quail, rabbit, deer and antelope.

As for timber, that is a word not known in the vocabulary of Arizona productions if we except a species of scrubby, thorny wood known as "mesquite" - A few cottonwoods are found along the streams.

Some fish are found in the rivers, that are not all dried up. Water is plentiful, especially along the principal rivers.

At least a portion of the territory comprises what is know as the "Gadsden Purchase". We do not know the amount paid but are of the opinion form a pecuniary point of view, Uncle Sam Was the loser. The U. S. Marshal of the Territory is Maj. A. B. Duggield, a man whose antecedents, if reports be true, eminently qualify him for the position. He resides at Tucson, a place that deserves a passing notice being the largest town we have seen since leaving San Pedro (Arizona City not excepted). Its antiquity is disputed ground, or at lease involved in some obscurity - but judging from appearances we should say it was founded sometime since the Christian Era.

The houses are built entirely of adobe and the streets are laid out with about as much regard for neatness and regularity as are the trails through a prairie dog village. The inhabitants are greasers and Indians with the exception of Uncle Sam’s boys. In the matter of costume, a variety of styles prevail - from the Indian with flour-sack about his loins to the well clad American soldier - from the Mexican vaqueros with immense sombreros and jingling spurs to the government teamster with slouch hat and tattered habiliments. The female portion of the community is entirely Mexican and they are slouchy and inelegant in their attire and indolent in their habits.

In fact, viewing the inhabitants collectively, one may say of them in the language of Byron, that "No one doth seem to care for cleanliness of surtout or of shirt, though sheut with Egypt’s plague, unkempt, unwashed, unhurt".

Such was our impressions of Tucson by daylight but to make matters worse, we took a stroll through the town by moonlight. If we had before entertained exalted ideas of Alhambras by moon-light and gay youths serenading their sweet hearts in the evening air, fragrant with the aroma of orange blossoms and all that sort of thing, they vanished with that nocturnal visit. No love-sick cavalier touched his guitar at the window of his fair senorita. All was silent save a few soldiers carousing in a adjacent gin-mill. The streets were nearly deserted and in the soft silver light of the moon, the shapeless adobe houses seemed ten times more flat and unromantic.

Prescott situated in a mineral portion of the country is the capital and largest town in the Territory. A newspaper entitled "Arizona Miner" is published here. It eschews politics, advocates the mining interest and is "Sound on the goose", or at least it ought to be as it is the only one published in the Territory. Goodwin is the functionary who is supposed to hold the reins of the Territorial Government in his hands, at present, and this camp, misnamed Fort, is his namesake. It was established about 1½ years ago. Seven companies of troops were sent here with the expectation of having a fight with the Indians, as it was supposed that they would make a stand at this one of their strongest camps but it seems that they did not dare to abide the issue, and fled a few hours previous to the arrival of the soldiers. There are, as yet no permanent buildings here and the location is not very interesting from a scenic point of view. From what we can learn, we believe that the Apaches are in possession of the Territory at present, with the exception of a few isolated outposts and it seem to be their custom to come into these out-posts (this one, at least) every winter, treat for peace, receive rations from the government, lay around the garrison all winter and leave at the approach of spring, for their inaccessible haunts in the mountains and then, no doubt, they exclaim in the language of one of their race who once flourished on the other side of the continent, "Our vice is still for war". They may be very good friends of the white man, as they profess to be (when in his power) but as Artemas Ward would say they sometimes have a "cussed queer way of showing it".

Take it altogether ,the road from San Pedro to here is not a very interesting road to travel. The scarcity of timber will always be a draw-back to the development of the country; but in the absence of timber, there is an abundance of mezcal and every third mile on the road develops a new species of cactus.

Such is our impression of the Territory, so far. And here we pause.

Nov. 11. An alarm was occasioned in camp last night by the discharge of fire-arms and the remains of an Apache Chief lying in front of the guard house this morning proved to have been the cause of the disturbance. He has been a prisoner at the post for some time and proof is not wanting of his being principal in several outrages committed upon emigrants and others on the road. Common report and a cloud of witnesses stamp him as a villain of the blackest dye. But last night he paid the debt of nature and stretched at full length upon the ground he looked like an Apache gone in (Patagonian). He is said to be well known in New Mexico, Arizona and Sonora and somewhere in the latter place, a reward of $3000 is said to have been offered for his head.

The particulars of his capture are somewhat as follows: Coming into the garrison among some other Indians he was recognized by a Mexican guide and taken charge of by the authorities here. Since his capture, he has been kept in double irons in the guard house. Hopes of a release have all along been held out to him in order to elicit form his, if possible, information in regard to the whereabouts of some white children who are captives of the Apaches. The manner of his death is not clearly known, at lease not to everyone. One report is that he was shot endeavoring to escape from the sentinel in charge. Another report current in camp and the one most generally believed is that he was shot by order of the Commanding Officer. It was rather clandestinely done and it is not very satisfactory to the soldiers. They vastly preferred seeing him executed publicly, black criminal that he was, to his being assassinated thus. At any rate, five or six shots fired in quick succession just as we were dropping off to sleep, precipitated us from our tents in some little confusion. However we all fell in under arms and after the alarm again turned in, slept on our arms and kept ourselves prepared for an attack.

Nov. 18. Capt. Stewart, in command of Co. H started out this morning on a scout but returned in the afternoon not having met any "foreman worthy of his steel". The expedition was started on the strength of a rumor that the Indians were driving a band of sheep through the country east of here, and they (the officers) expected to make a raid and capture them. It turned out that an Indian was the cause of all the excitement because of his making inquiries as to whether the Q. M. would like to buy two or three hundred head of sheep. Since Capt. Stewart’s return, no one seems disposed to purchase sheep.

Nov. 21. Funeral at sunset. A private of Co. I, New Mexico Vol. A train of supplies arrives from Tucson. They bring with them rumors that we are soon to be mustered out. And as a consequence the boys are in high spirits to night.

Nov. 22. Some friendly Indians came into camp today and informed the officers that some of their tribe have some white children captives about 20 miles from here. A detachment under command of Lieut. Febner consisting of Sergeant Dulin and ten privates was immediately dispatched to rescue them, to be gone three days.

Nov. 25. Lieut. Felmer’s [sic] detachment returns not having found any white captives. They brought with them an Apache Chief, bearing a flag of truce and seven or eight of his tribe who are peacefully disposed and favor a treaty of peace. In the afternoon two detachments consisting of 50 men each, leave the garrison for scouting purposes, one under command of Capt. Simpson and the other under Capt. Stewart. In the former is a detachment of K Company among which is myself. We are supposed to be absent 30 days. The military authorities, it seems insist on a vigorous prosecution of the war. Our command goes down the Gila. We encamp at night 5 miles from the garrison, on the river.

Nov. 26. Travel down the river ten miles and encamp. An Express from the garrison reaches us at camp. Shortly after dark the sentinel reported that he saw a couple of Indians prowling around in the bushes which gave us some alarm and we immediately extinguished our fires and stayed out in the cold until morning.

Nov. 27. March down the river six miles. Down the river, down the Gila 7 miles. Numerous signs of Indians. Deserted ranchos.

Nov. 28. After two or three miles travel this morning, we wade the river then leave it to our left. Our trail leads us over the upland and hills for a couple of miles then down a steep rocky hill into the pleasant valley of the Rio San Carlos. The river here is about a rod wide and is well lines with cottonwoods and willows.

Nov. 30. Travel on up the San Carlos, over the Bluffs and valley alternately and encamp on a fine grassy plateau with a precipitous bluff of rock facing us from the east and the river with its monotonous woods and willows on the west. Here our command will probably halt and send out scouting parties in different directions.

Dec. 1st. Remain in camp. A detachment is sent out Indian hunting under command of Capt. Noyes. Indications of rain.

Dec. 2nd. Another scouting party is sent out under command of Lieut. Norcross. Rain.

Dec. 3rd. Lieut. Norcross party returns. Found no Indians. Rained all night.

Dec. 4th. Pleasant. Remain in camp, dry our clothing and blankets. Rations beginning to get short.

Dec. 5th. Cloudy and disagreeable with indications of more rain. Still in camp.

Dec. 6th. Weigh anchor and start for home. Camp at night on the Saint Charles River

Dec. 7th. Cross the Gila.

Dec. 8th. Lay over.

Dec. 9th. Decamp.

Dec. 10th. March on up the river ten or twelve miles and encamp within 15 miles of home.

Dec. 11th. Arrive at Goodwin seventeenth day out.

SCOUTING

At this season of the year, carrying one blanket, your overcoat, half a shelter tent, your gun accoutrements and 210 rounds of ammunition, is not very desirable pastime, especially when you are out seventeen days without finding an Indian. If Jomini could peruse a detailed account of our expedition, he would , no doubt, see fit to change his definition of military terms considerably. Thus the term Scouting (in an Indian country, at least) as our experience proves, is to start out and travel 8 or 10 miles a day, camping about noon and keeping good fires burning all night so as to warn all Indians of your whereabouts. In the morning a large fire should be built so as to make smoke so that the enemy can see it and flee your approach. It is also well to take the precaution a few days before leaving the garrison to post all guides and interpreters so that they can easily go out into the mountains and intimate the coming danger to their savage brother. Thus you will easily avoid coming into collision with the noble red man. An appropriate report to send to Headquarters would be something like this:


Deserted Rancheria, December 1865

General:

We are at the camp of the enemy and they are ours (hour ahead of us.
Dec. 12th. On our arrival home we find our company moved into our new quarters, which are somewhat more comfortable than tent. Capt. Stewart and party return bringing with them nearly 200 Indians, of both sexes and of all ages. They are going to treat for peace. Rations of beef and wheat are issued to them from the Commissary.
Dec. 15th. Rations begin to fail in the Commissary and one hears nothing but grumbling and complaining.


Dec. 25th. Christmas comes but once a year,
And That eventful day is here,
But "Faith" it brings us little cheer
Christmas turkeys are very dear,
And we cannot get a drop of beer
Starvation, of course, we do not fear
But things are working rather queer,
Meanwhile we hope that better times are near.

New Year Day, January First 1866
Ascent the watch-tower, valiant soldier
Look on the field and say how goes the battle


Schiller’s Maid of Orleans.

It is profitable occasionally in our lives to retrospect the past, to ascent the watch-tower of memory and look back on the field we have traversed, to view at a soul glance the many sinuosities of the road we have trod, to trace the intricacies of the thread of our existence back to its source, to view the vicissitudes through which we have passed, and the perils we have survived. Encouraging is such a view to the mind disposed to profit by experience. Sublime are its teachings, forcing us to acknowledge in all things the presence of an over-ruling Providence. Giving us to know that man tho’ a slave to earthly sense is progressing toward all that is good and pure. Yet when we come to view the many errors of our lives both of head and heart, the good resolutions we have made and never kept, the good deeds we have never done and the evil we have upheld (by our silence, at least), when we view all these, I repeat, we are disposed to report that the battle goes unfavorably. Our success I life depends on the spirit with which we fight life’s battles for what is life but a series of conflicts, a ceaseless strife against passion, against fortune and "the thousand ills that flesh is heir to". How true is the language of the poet, that "He who lives as wise men ought , but lives as saints have died, a martyr". "There is a lion in the way" yea many of them, and only a few of earth’s lion-hearted sons may overcome the obstacle to their progress in this mundane existence. The last chapter in "This strange eventful history" is death, the great Waterloo of the campaign of life, the final struggle to which even Napoleon must succumb. Behold what two great volumes of wisdom are open to our perusal so that "He who runs may read". They are respectively The Experience of Man and The World of Nature. This first may show us the reefs and rock on which so many who have preceded us have made shipwreck, may point us to the quicksand which lay in our future course, may direct us to the goal of human ambition to which we would aspire and teach us inunmistable terms that if we would avoid their fate, we must avoid their errors. The second is the great pictorial edition of the Works of nature, issued some centuries ago from the hand of its Divine Author. Yet how few have read aught but its title pages, how few have ever dived into its mysteries or fathomed the secrets it contains. This great volume is ever before us like an open book-teaching man his affinity to everything in Nature of which he constitutes a part, from the stream let hurrying on like man to its destiny, the boundless ocean to the son-covered mountains that point forever to the skies. Who that goes forth into the boundless Kingdom of Nature among her fields and flowers and trees which were the first temples of God, but feels his soul expand within him as he reads "Books in the running brooks, sermons in stone and good in everything". The tendency of our own experience should be to make us hopeful for the future, strong for the coming conflicts of the soul with the senses and to make each year in our life an improvement on its predecessor.

Camp Starvation January 27, 1866

The troops at this post consisting of 3 companies of California and one of New Mexican Volunteers under the command of Lt. Col. Pollock and the whole in the service of the United States, are not starved out yet, but here is something in Denmark that smells bad. We are of the opinion that certain officials in this department have been reaching deep down into Uncle Sam’s packet for since our battalion arrived here not a frijole has been issued to us. There wasn’t any at the post and of course no one was to blame. Misfortunes never come alone and this was the beginning of tribulations. About two weeks before Christmas the sugar gave out in the commissary. Of course, no one was to blame and the soldiers swallowed their coffee with as good grace as possible, under the circumstances. About this time the supply of beef cattle failed and after some delay arrangements were made with the sutler at the post for butchering his ox teams which had recently done their owner good service on the road. Now the soldiers were furnished with meat for a while longer but times which had begun to look blue were not nearly so blue as the sutler’s beef. Early in the present month our rations of bread began to grow small by degrees, decreasing in weight at the rate of nearly an ounce a day. By the twelfth of the present month we received only half rations of bread but were allowed an additional quantity of rice was again augmented and now come the experiment of feeding us on wheat, accordingly a pound of wheat was issued to, each man and after being boiled was served out by the cook. The experiment prove a failure, the stomachs of the soldiers refusing to sanction so important a change in diet and the wheat ration was stopped. Since then we have been living on rice plain, coffee straight and very indifferent beef. There has as yet been no insubordination or mutiny, not a man has refused to do his duty as a good soldier though we will not say but what curses both loud and deep have been showered upon the heads of those who are considered responsible for the deficiency. Perhaps the adage that the hour is the darkest just before the dawn may have a prophetic application in our case. At least we hope so. In the meanwhile we shall keep an anxious lookout for a train and of course blame nobody.

Jan. 28th A train of supplies arrived today consisting of 15,000 lbs. of flour, pork and beans etc.

Feb. 2nd. Paymaster arrives and of course the boys are jubilant in anticipation of receiving at his hands four months pay, bounty etc. in greenbacks.

Feb. 3rd. Two companies were paid off today and greenbacks are flying around like leaves in an autumn wind.

Feb. 5th. Los otros dos companias were paid today.

Feb. 10th. Since payday gambling has been all the rage. The Montebank is the insatiable Moloch to whom the boys offer up their sacrifices in the shape of greenbacks.

Feb. 18th. Inspector-General, by name Davis, and by rank Major arrives at the post.

Feb. 19th. Inspection and Review by Major Davis. A train of supplies in the evening from Tucson. Private Johnson of Co. B, 7th Inf. Cal. Vol., on escort duty here gave an entertainment in the consisting of scenes from Shakespeare.

Feb. 22nd. The troops were paraded and reviewed today in commemoration of the birthday of the Father of his Country.

Feb. 24th. There was quite a stir in camp last night at 11 o’clock. The sentry at Post No. 2 discharged his piece at some passing hombre who, prompted perhaps by an inordinate desire to remain incognito refused to answer when challenged but took to his heels like a valiant soldier. Thus far no harm was done but the report of the musket brought sundry members of the Guard to the spot, among others, the Officer of the Day who on this particular occasion had so far forgotten his dignity as an officer in the U.S. Army as to be in a state of beastly intoxication and fell headlong into a ditch nearby and this morning he, the sergeant of the guard and the 1st Sergeant of Company I are under arrest. Recent developments show that a mujere (Q) who hold forth in the lower part of the garrison was the cause of all the disturbance. May we not say with Shakespeare "Woman, thy name is frailty".

Feb. 28th. Inspection and Muster.

Mar. 1st. Scouting has again become fashionable. This morning the New Mexican Company left for a scout of 20 days.

Mar. 5th. Brigadier General Whittier, Inspection General, accompanied by Col. Dennison of the 2nd U.S. Artillery and Col. Smedberg of the 14th. U.S. Infantry arrived at this post. Escort return from Fort Grant. They report that Capt. Urmy in command of a scouting party from Fort Grant fired on a body of Indians a day or two ago, killing four and taking a few prisoners. The Indians did not evince any hostility and it seems were fired on unaware. The escort brought in a captive that they picked up on the way, a youth of 9 or 10 years, supposed to be a boy but evidence being adduced to the contrary SHE was set at liberty.

March 12th. Inspector General takes his departure for Fort Grant. All the military stores pertaining to the post underwent a thorough examination and inspection during his stay and all articles and stores unfit for use were promptly condemned. It is probable that some changes for the better will be made in this department soon. Our hopes for a discharge from this service in three or four months are confirmed by the General. The Col. of the 14th is well pleased with the location and it is said intends making this post his headquarters.

Mar. 15th. "The cry is still they come" the Apaches we mean. Col. Pollock’s conciliatory manner of treating them has brought large numbers of them in the vicinity of the garrison where rations of "carne" and wheat are issued to them daily. A walk around among the rancherias is quite entertaining. Their habits of life may be said to be in strange contrast with those of the nations of other lands. All manual labor devolves upon the squaw such as carrying water &. The bucks occupy their time mostly in lounging around the hillsides and basking in the sun. At night the buck enfolds himself in his serape and lies along side the fire taking care to secure for himself the most comfortable position. The female members of the family cook the supper and keep the fires going, if need be, all night. Their language, if it may be dignified with the name, consists of a series of guttural sounds or grunts which would be very difficult to express in English.

Mar. 17th. Some time ago we noted the fact that the troops at this post were destitute or nearly so of the necessaries of life, by the soldiers vulgarly called "Grub". Since that eventful period provisions have flowed in apace so that with a few exceptions, complaints on that score would now be unjustifiable and uncalled for. But notwithstanding the removal of this fruitful cause for complaint, do not imagine for a moment that we are resign our precious prerogative as a soldier. We mean the right to grumble. By no means. But is of another deficiency that we speak now, namely the scarcity of intellectual food in the garrison. In fact in the matter of reading matter, we are living on less than one-fourth rations. We need only cite a few instances to prove the truth of our assertion. Take the case of a comrade of ours who, unable to obtain anything else, has gone to reading the Bible as a pastime. Does not this prove the total want of mental sustenance when a soldier voluntarily endeavors to digest such substantial food. Or another instance where a stray copy of Robinson Crusoe has gone from company to company and from hand to hand until with such perpetual thumbing the text is threatened with oblivion. The veritable adventures and hair-breadth escapes of the Originals are nothing to the perils of annihilation he ahs survived here, and were this the only copy in existence we would not answer for its appearance before the world in a new edition again. The sutler also brought a few yellow covered novels with him from the Rio Grande along with his other necessities but they were soon gobbled up and are by this time worn out, their frail bindings failing to secure for them a very long existence in the rough hands of the soldiery.

Of leisure time we have an abundance, more in fact than we know what to do with. Even a Spanish dictionary with the facilities that exist here for acquiring that language, would be an invaluable acquisition, but there is only one at the post that we know of and that could not be had for love or money. Newspapers the greatest luxury of the modern civilization are as rare here as they were in the civilized world two centuries ago. In the way of intellectual entertainment our condition is lamentable, but we see no way of bettering it as present and we suppose our privations on that score will come under the head of "Sacrifices for the good of the Country", Patriotism, &&&&&

Mar. 22nd. The Indians keep coming in clans, reinforcing the rancherias near the garrison almost every day. The report is current in camp that one thousand Indians more are coming in tomorrow. The object is to get them all on a reservation here and keep them. Their arrival at the garrison in small parties suggested the following parody:


We are coming Father Pollock one thousand Indians more,
We are coming for the wheat and beef that you have for us in store
If you look o’er the Parade Grounds you may see us even now,
We are coming to your quarters to have a grand pow-pow.

We are noble looking fellows as we pass I Indian File
See how in our costumes we renounce all modern style
Fashion’s votaries are fools and we’ve voted her a bore,
We are coming Father Pollock "One thousand Indians more".

From the country near and far we are flocking in like sheep
Let others sow whatever they may, we are content to reap.
From the distant mountain glens and the Gila’s winding shore,
We are coming Father Pollock One Thousand Indians more.

Pinals and Sierra-Blancos and Cogoteros too
Are swarming in by hundreds to the new made rendezvous
The gathering of the clans in the tales of Scottish lore
Was nought to the assembling of "One Thousand Indians More".


Mar. 28th. The Express which arrived last night brought orders for the three companies of the 2nd. Cal. Vol. at this post to take up the line of march for California immediately upon the arrival of the Regulars (an event expected to take place daily) for the purpose of being mustered out. Col. Wright left Fort Grant with the other five companies of the regiment on the 10th of the present month, for the same purpose.

Corporal William A. Bushnell,
Co. K, 2nd. Infantry Cal. Vol.
Fort Goodwin, A. T.

April 1st, 1866


April 1st. A scouting party of about 70 men headed by Col. Pollock left this morning for the vicinity of the scene of the outrages recently committed by the Apaches between Fort Grant and Maricopa, in order if possible to punish the marauders. They take with them six days rations, all that can be spared from the Commissary in the present straitened condition of that institution, but upon the arrival of a supply train here another party is to be sent after them with more provisions. Capt. Stewart is in command of the post.


April 2nd. There was a general alarm in the garrison last night, an outbreak of the Apaches being momentarily expected. The rumor that two hundred warriors of the Cogotero tribe intended making a descent on the post, whether well-founded or not had the effect of causing the guard to be strengthened and the vigilance of everybody to be redoubled.

April 5th. Another express left this morning for Tucson consisting of three men- Lieut. Haine and two privates.

April 7th. The post sutler returns from the Rio Grande where he has been nearly two months for supplies for his department.

April 9th. Lieut. Haine, who left here a few days ago for Tucson, returns, having met the train of supplies.

April 10th. A train of supplies arrives at the post.

April 11th. Col. Pollock’s scouting party comes in not having encountered any hostile Indians if any at all. Sergeant Lacy and party also returns from Apache Pass.

April 13th. Express arrives from Apache Pass bringing letters && but nothing definite in regards to our departure from "This festive scene". We have been disappointed so often on that score that we have almost ceased to hope. The signs of the times at present indicate that we will not leave here until the last of the month, at any rate.

April 14th. How are our Indians getting along? We answer; They are doing finely. They now muster for 8 or 9 hundred rations of beef and wheat or corn, daily. The smallest as well as the largest of the tribes draw full rations. Three or four men have steady employment issuing rations. They are motley looking crowd as they assemble at the Commissary of Indian Subsistence at 2:30 P. M. daily and march off with their rations in the direction of their respective rancherias. What a splendid chance would there be here for Harper’s special artist, such sketches as "Issuing Rations", "Muster", and portraits of "Medicine Man", "The Chief". It would be highly entertaining.

April 15th. Express and the train of Commissary supplies arrive from Tucson. They bring the welcome intelligence that there are no regular troops coming to our relief this side of Yuma, that is Fort Yuma.

April 16th. The supply train leaves for Tucson accompanied by three men of our command and Capt. Noyes. The latter is on a sick furlough and the three soldiers are sent to Cal. to be discharged, their terms of service having nearly expired.

April 17th. There was symptoms of a riot this morning among the Indians. The difficulty originated about a blanket. For a while blood seemed imminent as the opposing and contending factions ere in hostile array and only separated from each other by a small raving, a distance of a hundred yards. They mustered their forces to the number of 50 or more men on each side and seemed destined to come into collision when a short "armistice" was agreed upon and after some diplomacy, pacific counsels prevailed. The property in dispute was to be disposed of in the following manner: the two claimants were to take hold of an end of the blanket and divide it between them with their knives, the more dexterous in the use of that weapon, having the best chance. In this manner it was decided, one of the combatants getting a little more than half of the blanket, less than half, getting in addition a smart cut on the face.

April 23rd.

"When fevers burn and agues freeze us,
Rheumatics gnaw and colic’s squeeze us,
Our neighbors sympathize to ease us
With pitying moan.
But thou yhe hell of all diseases
Thou mockst our groan."


So says Burns of the toothache, very justly terming it the hell of all diseases. We venture to say that no one who has not suffered from this painful malady knows how to appreciate its dreadful pangs. Laboring under this direful visitation, all sympathy almost amounts to insult and we feel like accusing the sympathizers of want of respect for our sufferings. What avail it that we change our position every five minutes standing, walking, lying, sitting, it’s all the same. The demon is not thus to be routed. Your change of base moves his not. The delirium of fever extending from the afflicted member to the whole side of the face and from thence to the remotest parts of the system is much more pleasant to contemplate than to endure. If you can manage to catch a short nap your rest is disturbed by small demons with diminutive hammers in their hands knocking away on your jaw trying to displace it. Calm sleep only lives in your remembrance as the recollection of some pleasant dream. At least such has been our experience of the toothache from which we have suffered intensely the last few days, our abhorrence of a visit to the doctor so far surpassing the misery we have endured.

April 24th. Arrived – express from Apache Pass "mail-matter" News- The Regulars are coming - so is the Fourth of July. Query "Which one will get here first? The warmest day of the season 96° in the shade.

April 28th. Arrived - a train of supplies from Tucson, consisting of subsistence for the Indians. Had some fine April showers today accompanied by some old-fashioned thunder which sounded quite old-fashioned and home-like.

April 30th. Parade and muster of all forces at the post. Another supply train arrives from Tucson also a fine drove of beef cattle also the express from Apache Pass. The Regulars are supposed to be between here and Tucson. Allowing such to be the case, we can be relieved and leave here inside of a week.

May 1st. Rain has fallen at intervals for the last three days and the rainy season seem thoroughly inaugurated.

May 9th. 1866 Half a year to a day from the time of our arrival at Fort Goodwin. We took up the line of march for California, marched across the creek and encamped upon its banks opposite the garrison.

May 10th. Fort Goodwin Adios. Farewell to the garrison where we have been stationed for lo these many days for we assure you the time has not passed on eagle wings. On the morning of the tenth just as the sun was gilding the top of Mt. Turnbull we struck tents and were soon on the road.

From Fort Goodwin to Tucson

Our first days march brought us to Cottonwood Creek. Our teams being poor we did not get into camp until 9 o’clock at night, but the command had arrived there at 1 P.M. The first days marching , after so much inactivity tells considerably upon the boys but they bear it cheerfully, as they are homeward bound, and there is a magic in that word that poetry cannot describe. The second day we marched to Eureka Wells, the third day to Oak Grove, a good camping ground with an oak grove stretching away towards the mountains. Antelope are numerous here.

The fourth day we reach Croton Springs. The water here is bad and there is no wood. To our left hand is a continuous mountain range and in those mountains there is said to be "much gold." Rising conspicuously from among the mountain peaks appears "Los dos cabesas" (the two heads). Near those peaks is situated Fort Bowie, otherwise known as Apache Pass, once a stronghold of the Indians. The fifth day we arrived at the Rio San Pedro after a march of 35 miles. The sixth day we reached Mezcal Station. Here we feasted to our hearts content on wild currant and laid over for one day. The seventh days travel brought us to Tucson. The marches have been long and wearisome and the last few days there has been considerable complaint about too much marching, the colonel in command being blamed for it. Riding along the other day on his Beaucephelus a few rods in advance of his men he was heard to remark to fellow officer "The men stand it remarkably well", at the same time throwing a furtive glance back to a soldier by the road-side who had given out from sheer exhaustion and was endeavoring to improvise an awning out of his over an almost leafless mesquite bush. A Few minutes later we passed a fine grove and a few minutes later still the Col. ordered a halt for rest where there no trees and no vestige of shade. Military ability is a great thing. Having been over the road once, of course we did not wee much new this time, the same barren mountains towered on either hand, the same mesquite bush by the roadside sought to detain us with their jagged thorns. The same deer crossed the road just in advance of us. Arriving at Tucson, the same monotony meets us everywhere. The same long line of Mexican carts attached to the same big-horned oxen, pass us in the suburbs of the town. The same adobes stand there as real as ever. Near our former camping ground about a mile from town we encamped for a day or two and the boys indulged themselves to their heart’s content drinking Tucson poison, Tarantula juice, Arizona Lightning &&&. Many of the boys deprived for a long time of the beverage they favored, got unconsciously drunk and in this state many were robbed of what few greenbacks they possessed by a set of harpies in the shape of regular soldiers belonging to the 14th U.S. Inf. Stationed in town. On the 19th of May we left Tucson on our homeward march. A number of men stopped in town as we passed through, got to drinking and before they were aware of it some of the were so much intoxicated as too be unable to travel, and a certain corporal in charge of the rear guard had his hands full that day. Those however whom he could not manage he left by the roadside with sealed orders to join their command as soon as they had slept it off. The next days march brought the sober part of the command to Point of Mountain, 20 miles from Tucson.

May 20th. We did not resume our march until 3 P.M. on the day following our arrival here (Point of Mountain), hoping by this means to cross the desert in the night. About midnight we halted and made coffee.

May 21st. Arrived at Blue Water Station about 9 A.M. Weather terribly warm.

May 22nd. March to our old stamping ground on the Gila, Sacaton. Many Indians, it being part of the Pimo and Maricopa Reservation.

May 23rd. March 12 miles and encamp at Pimo Village or White’s Mills.

May 24th. To Maricopa Wells, same distance as yesterday. Nothing of special importance happened until within a days march of Fort Yuma, when a messenger came to us from the fort with the welcome intelligence that we were to proceed by water from Fort Yuma. The march as a general thing was monotonous enough to make a chapter in a modern novel. IT was with heartfelt joy that we again looked on the turbid waters of the Colorado which we did on the fourth of June having accomplished;

"The long, long march from Sacaton
To where the Gila is no more
But loses itself with a sullen groan
Where Colorado water roar".


We made the march from Fort Goodwin to Fort Yuma in 26 days, a distance of 462 and a half miles. We remained encamped here until the sixth when we went on board the small steamer which was to convey us to the mouth of the Colorado. Though the vessel did not leave her moorings until the morning of the seventh.

Evening of the seventh: We tied up to the bank, went ashore and camped. Disembarked the morning of the eighth at the mouth of the Colorado at 9 P.M. Capt. Noyes who has been absent from his company on a sick furlough, for a couple of months died here a few days ago on his way to San Francisco, and was buried at Point Isabel.

June 10th. After experiencing considerable delay in getting over the Bar at the mouth of the river, we found ourselves in the open water of the Gulf of California. We were five days coming down the gulf. Under different circumstances the trip would have been one to be remembered a lifetime, with pleasure. As it was, we cannot soon forget it. Such a smooth calm and as Byron would say a "deep blue sea". Such splendid star-lit nights. Every evening the soldiers used to assemble on deck in the bow of the vessel to sing songs and amuse themselves as best they might. For ourselves this singing was nothing to the music of our thoughts as leaning over the gunwale we watched the faithful vessel plow her way through the sparkling and phosphorescent waves. After rounding Cape St. Lucas a "change came in the spirit of our dreams and such a change. Head winds, rough seas, sea sickness, indifferent fare, &&&&&. It was one of the happiest days of our lives when we set foot upon Folsom St. Wharf, San Francisco, on the morning of the twenty-third of June, having been 15 days on the water. Same day marched out to the Presidio to be mustered out as soon as the necessary papers can be made.




End of Diary.

Letter to Mr. Patten from Captain William Becknell

Mr. Patten,

If the following narrative of my late tour in the upper province of Mexico, is sufficiently interesting to deserve a place in your columns, you are at liberty to publish it.

On the 5th of November last, I left Santa Cruz with a party of nine men, employed in my service, with a view of trapping on the Green River, several hundred miles from Santa Fe.

In the course of my route towards the point of destination, I passed through the gap in a mountain, which was so narrow as greatly to resemble a gate-way. This mountain, which had the appearance of an artificial mound, was about three or four hundred feet high, and not more than ten feet in breadth at the base. The country here is poor, and only timbered with pine and cedar. I met in this vicinity, several parties of Indians, who were poor and inoffensive. It was, however, reported that some of the Indians who spent some time with us, afterwards committed murders upon the persons of some of the engages of Mr. Prevost of St. Louis, and robbed the remainder. We suffered every misery incident to such an enterprise in the winter season, such as hunger and cold-but were exempted from robbery. The flesh of a very lean horse, which we were constrained to break our fast with, was at this time, pronounced excellent. But when his bones were afterwards served up, as a matter of necessity, they were not as well relished, but had nearly proved fatal to the whole party. We found to our cost, that our stomachs, although tolerably commodiously disposed, were not equal to the task of digesting bones. You can readily imagine, that we were in that deplorable condition where it would be justifiable to adopt the philosophy of the ancient Romans, and give odds to die. But such is not the practice of Missourians. Although we were forty days from settlements, the snow three or four feet deep, and our small stock of horses, our principal reliance for effecting a retreat, considered sacred, so that to have eaten them would have been like dining upon our own feet, we still contrived to supply our tables, if not with the dainties of life, with food of the most substantial kind. For instance, we subsisted two days on soup made of a raw hide we had reserved for sealing our moccasins; on the following morning the remains were dished up into a hash. The young men employed by me had seen better days, and had never before been supperless to bed, nor missed a wholesome and substantial meal at the regular family hour, except one, who was with me when I opened the road to Santa Fe. When afterwards we were enabled to procure indifferent bear meat, we devoured it in that style of eagerness, which, on a review of our operations at this time, very forcibly reminds us of the table urbanity of a prairie wolf.

While at our winter camp we hunted when we could, and the remainder of the time attempted to sleep, so as to dream of the abundance of our own tables at home, and the dark rich tenants of our smoke houses.

In the vicinity of our encampment, I discovered old diggings, and the remains of furnaces. There are also in this neighborhood the remains of many small stone houses, some of which have one story beneath the surface of the earth. There is likewise an abundance of broken pottery here, well baked and neatly painted. This was probably the scite of a town where the ancient Mexican Indians resided, as the Spaniards, who seldom visit this part of the country, can give no account of it.

On our way back to the settlements, we halted at the encampment of a band of Indians, who shocked our feelings not a little by the disposition they were about to make of an infirm (and no longer useful) squaw. When the principal part of the band had left their camp, two of those remaining proceeded to lay the sick woman upon her face, by the side of some of her effects. They then covered her with a funeral pile of pine wood, to which they set fire, and thus made a Hindoo sacrifice of the patient old matron.

As the depth of the snow, and the immense cold of the season rendered trapping almost impracticable, we succeeded, on a third attempt, in making good our retreat from this inhospitable wilderness, and reached a Spanish village on the fifth of April, after an absence of five months.

It was reported in the Spanish settlements, by a man who had been employed by George Armstrong, of Franklin, who accompanied me to Santa Fe, that he had been murdered by the Indians; but I have good reason to believe, and I most sincerely hope, this may be only an idle fabrication.

The trade to this province has been greatly injured by the reduction of prices-white domestics are only fifty cents per yard. An export duty of three per cent. is collected on all specie brought out of the province in this direction. Although my essays have been unfortunate speculations, I am disposed to make another experiment.

I travelled from the Spanish village of Taos, to Fort Osage, on the Missouri, in thirty-four days. I had supplied myself with provisions for the journey consisting of meat, beans & peas. By the route which I travelled on my return, I avoided the so much dreaded sand hills, where adventurers have frequently been forced to drink the blood of their mules, to allay their thirst. Mr. Bailey Hardeman, of this county, was to have set out on his return, accompanied by a large party, on the first of the present month.

I cannot better conclude than by annexing this remark, that the toils endured, and the privations suffered in these enterprizes, very naturally give a tone and relish to the repose and plenty found at the civilized fire side.

WM. BECKNELL

1824 letter from Captain William Becknell to Mr. Barker

Letter To Bartolomé Baca, Govenor of New Mexico
Santa Crus Oct 29th 1824

To His Excelannce
govirnor of
New mexico
Bartolar Mr Barker

Seur I have recvd the Lisance you granted me by the onrabel preste [priest] of santa Cruse Manuel Radar and will Comply with your orders and obay them punctaly. Thar is 10 of us to gether all amearican. Those men at Tous I Have Nothing to Dew with. What thaar going to Dew I Know not. As you Requested me to Let you know of any that wars goin to trape I Cante say wheather tha ar or not. Tha Have sum trapes with them. If any Cums within my notis I shal give you notis of them as you requesid it of me. I shal be in Next June if nothing Hapins to us. Your Exlantance wishus me to send you sum medison. I sende you sum Rubarb and sum Campher. The Rubarbe you Can take at any time what will Ly on the pinte [point] of a pocket Knif in sum shuger and a spunful of Cold warter. You May Eaeght or drinke any thing Hot or Cold. The Best time to take it is of a night when you go to Bed. It is not apecke [ipecac?] a gentil purge and wil futufy the Stumak when in Bad order. The Campor you can desolve in whiskey. Put a few dropes in a dram of whiskey in the morning will Help the stumake very much. I send you A few of the gusawit Barks. Put them in to a botel of whiskey I quart in [illegible] and let them stand in the sun for one or 2 Days and then drinke them as Biter in the morning what you Like of them. The preste of santa Clarar wishes to go to the united States with me next spring if it is agreabel to your Excelances. My Friend Mr. Lagrand will translat this to your oner. I shal Cum an see you when I Cum in from the woods. The winte[r] is aprochin so near I Cante [find] time to Cum now but all orders from you Shal be apentual [punctually?] obad [obeyed] by me from your oner Seur.

Your moste obedante umbil Sarvunte.

CAPT. WM. BECKNELL

Diary of William H. Ashley-1825 pioneer account

The Diary of Willam H. Ashley, March 25 - June 27, 1825
Thursday 25 March 1825 we ascended the vallie west and crossed a gap in a mountain bg N & S and at the distance of 3 or 4 miles Entered a beautifull vallie of a sercular form - having seen the sign of many beaver on a small Stream running through it we Encamped on the same for the purpose of Setting some traps which was done by four men - our course to day (about 8 1/2 miles) was W.
Friday 26th March we continued our course W across the vally and camped on The principal fork of the Platt distant about 8 miles where it bears W S W. - clear & cold

Saturday 27th Cloudy cold windy morning we traveled W to day about 12 miles and Encamped on a small Stream coming from the cliffs of the principal river the country here being Entirely destitute of wood our only fuel sage

Sunday 28th Cold and clair. we traveled to day 6 miles N W over high river cliffs. The country was such as to prevent me from continuing my course W The principal branch of the river bg S W & N E distant from this camp about 5 miles The country generally - is becoming very much cut to pieces by ravines or dry hollers some of the vallies are verry fertile but their driness renders them unfit for cultivation - Snow is so common that I have omitted to note its falling at least two days out of Three

Monday 29th Clear & cold the forenoon after noon cloudy with some snow we travelled about 18 miles W N W. over a high level country the head waters of the Platt. we crossed at the distance of ten mile from camp, a creek Bearing N & S south of which crossing a high mountain bore [strikeout: South] N distant about 6 miles. between This mountain and one W the creek appeared to pass we Encamped on a small creek bg N E without wood our fuel Sage water scarce although the remaining snow is dayly melting-

Tuesday 30thwe traveled about 8 miles W over a valley in which are several ponds of water detached mountains Northwardly a few miles - low ridges southwardly - and at the distance of about twenty miles west mountains appearing detached - This would be a difficult Country to travel through at any other time than when the snow was melting as it would be entirely destitute of water is a poor grass country Entirly a bed of sand The only fuel small sage.-

Wednesday 31st traveled about 12 miles West and Encamped on high sand flat in the same valley in which we camped yesterday - the water made by the melting of the snow runs but a short distance and makes numerous ponds all over this country such is its situation that it is impossible to ascertain its decent. mountains on the north in detached heaps bg E & W about 20 miles and from all appearances a regular chain bg N & south about 20 miles now visible on the south or S W. this country is almost destitute of grass the only food for horses wild sage & salt weed which they will not Eat untill they are almost in a State of Starvation from the want of food one of mine were left to day and many so feeble that it is with difficulty they can be got along -

Thursday Apl. 1st we traveled 6 miles west over low flat ground the same valley that we have been in for some days mountains 15 or 20 miles bS N W and southwardly a beautifull vally about 40 miles wide bg S W & N E the decent W W [sic] which I suppose Empty its waters in the ones for which I am in serch-

Friday 2nd Apl. traveled W 10 miles over sand hills and on the borders of ponds made by the melting of snow

Saturday 3rd.traveled about 12 miles West along the border of a ridge of sand which appears to continue for many miles bg E &W - 2 or 3 miles wide

Sunday 4th having found yesterday some grass we moved our camp to day about one mile N where we remained the day for the benefit of our horses - A detached mountain bS W. about 10 miles where I went [interlined: the 5th] for the purpose of taking a view of the adjacint country - while there was discovered & followed by a party of (as I suppose) snake Indians who stole from me 17) Seventeen of my best horses

[Written in margin: remained at this camp 2 days].

monday 6th followed the trail of the Indians about 8 miles West recovered two of the horses which had been so severly traveled as not to be able to proceed farther. The Indians change their course northwardly.

Tuesday 7th proceedd one mile & Encamped followed the Indian trail over high hills in the direction of a mountain clothed with pine bg N 20 or 30 miles - having ascertaind from an arrow found an other appearances that the rogues are Snake Indians returned to camp and prepared to follow them tomorrow

Wednesday 8th Sent 9 men in persuit of the Indians and proceeded with the ballance N about 8 miles over a verry hilley country mountains bg N about 20 miles distant and others S W and W about 50 miles -

Thursday 9th traveled about 3 miles down a ravine N found some grass for the horses. & Encamped Mr. Ham and myself continued down the ravine several miles to Explore the country - but could not ascertain any thing satisfactory relative to the waters of the Shetkedee - we returned to camp late in the afternoon

Friday 10th last night two of my horses were Stolen by Indians they were however so indeferent That I did not attempt to recover them we proceeded West down a small creek about 6 miles & Encamped where we had tolerable good grass for the horses-

Saturday 11th descended the creek as mentioned West [i.e., Northwest] about 5 miles & Encamped the country west becomes more Even mountains Northwardly bg S E & N W and Westwardly N E & S W distant about 10 miles on the north & 20 [30?] on the West I have neglected to note the weather - for some days - the 1, 2 3, 4, 5, & 6th of this month was cold & disagreeable Snow more or less Each day - Snow on the 9th Clear & pleasant this day-

Sunday 12th Clear & cold & traveled North toward a high rugged mountain at 3 miles crossed Creek Running W - at the distance of 7 miles camped on a Creek running S W - 20 feet wide where camped the country high, broken & sandy

monday 13 decended the creek one mile S W and Encamped - Explored the country N to the mountain discovered a Creek on which are willows & some old beaver sign

Tuesday 14th Clear & cool - West 6 miles over a high flat Country Sandy Soil. wind river - mountain as discovered to day by the return of the men who went in persuit of the horses bS N W & S E, distant about 15 miles - camped on a Small creek on which is willows discoverd to day a Creek on which is large timber bg N & S The men who went after the horses followed them to Sweet water & found that they had been taken by a party of Crows, who finally made their Escape with Them -

Wednesday 1st Crossed to the timbered Creek S W about 6 miles decended the same 2 miles & encamped on it Cold disagreeable day the snow fell about 9 inches deep - high sandy country.

Thursday 16thThe snow continues with high winds we remain at this camp to day in consequence of the weather

Friday 17th proceeded down the creek south 8 miles at 4 miles distant another creek formed a junction with this cold snowy day -

Saturday 18th It continued to snow the wind to blow and the weather verry cold. We traveled S W about 8 miles and camped on the Creek we left in the morning & it had joined another - of considerable size and is well timbered with cotton wood bS W. The country has become more hilly and much washed in deep holes The snow discontinued later in the afternoon

Sunday 19th We left the creek which turned South traveled west 6 miles over a broken sandy country & came to the Shetkadee which bS S.E. & N W runs S E - is one hundred yards wide 4 to five feet deep with a rappid current - mountains bS N & westerly about 15 or 20 miles - And a range of mountains at a great distance say 40 or 50 miles southwardly - pleasant weather - game scarce Some fresh sign of beaver on this river and much old sign - timbered with long leaf cotton wood & small willow -

Monday 20th Continue at this camp for the purpose of making canoes to transport the packs down the river - Sent out 9 hunters to procure skins for the boats Late in the afternoon four of them returned without seeing [deleted: or falling] any Buffalloe - The men are and have been fer the last two days without any Thing to eat & they are becoming quite uneasy under the privation Some of the hunters brought in a horse which he found runing at large on the river bottoms - pleasant weather -

Tuesday 21st the 5 men sent to procure Skins arrived early this morning with six. with which we proceeded to make a boat. they also brought meat. the day is fine and our work advances rapidly -

Wednesday 22nd our boat 16 by 7 feet was finished this morning at 9 Ock A M, arrangements made for starting to make our hunt The following are the directions given to Mrs. Ham & Clyman who conduct Each a party, one of six; The other of five men - To wit That I will transport the goods and extra baggage down the river [deleted: at least 40] to some conspicuous point not less than 40 or 50 miles from this place should the rivr not pass will Make choice of the Entrance of some River that may Enter on the West side of the Shetskedee for a deposite should there be any such River, should the mountains through wich the river first passes be a less distance than we immagine, the deposit will be made on or near the river [interlined: a short distance] above the mountain at some suitable place - The place of deposite as aforesaid, will be The place of randavoze for all our parties on or before the 10th July next & that the place may be known - Trees will be pealed standing the most conspicuous near the junction of the rivers [deleted: If at the mouth of a river it] or above the mountain as the case may be-. Should such a point be without timber I will raise a mound of Earth five feet high or Set up rocks the top of which will be made red with vermillion thirty feet distant from the same - and one foot below the serface of the earth a northwst direction will be deposited a letter communicating to the parties any thing that I may deem necessary - Mrs C. & H will Each at a proper time apoint Each a man of their party to take charge of their business should by axident any thing occur to make it necessary.- The men so appointed will be informed of my arrangements, will, with their party proceed accordingly in the most carefull & best manner for my intrst - copies of the foregoing directions were delivered to Messrs Ham Cly. & Fitzpatrick, our boat launched and at 3 ock P. M The parties Started. Clyman with six men to the sources of the Shetskadee Ham [with seven men] - Westerly to a mountanous country That lay in that direction Fitzpatrick with 6 men southwardly & myself with 7 men Embarked on board the boat with all my goods and the extra baggage of the men, we decended the River a short distance and Encamped -

Thursday 23rd our boat answers the desired purpose greatly beyond my expectation it is Easily navigated & Carries as much again as I expected we decended the River to day about 3 [sic] miles 10 miles of which The river ran E. S. E. to a small Creek 30 yds wide 20 S E - high broken country on Each side the bodirs of the river Wooded with Cotton wood & willow

Friday 24th finding the boat inconvenient for hunting and from The bulk of the cargo The men much confined, I stoped to day Killed four buffaloe and made another boat while so Engaged Fitzpatrck & his party arrived supplied themselves with meat and they proceeded on down the river dark, cool, windy day

Saturday 25th we finished and launched our canoe at 9 Ock this morning and proceeded down the river 12 miles its general direction S E but verry croked - high broken country on Each side the bottoms have less timber on them & are becoming smaller - yesterday while attempting to get ahead of a Wounded buffaloe I fell from the side of a clift and brused my side which gives me to day some pain - clear pleasant day -

Sunday 26th I never suffered from bodily pain as much as the last night and until 9 Ock this morning from the bruise I recd - in consequence of my indisposition we did not Start this morning until 11 Ock we decended the river about 20 miles at six miles distant a small creek about 30 feet wide Entered on the E side bg E & W this creek I called City creek from the appearance of the Country about its Junction - from this point the river [interlined: its general course] runs W. S W to this days Encampment meandering through mountains which confine it on both sides the bottoms are verry small on which there is but little timber - Clear pleasant day -

Monday 27th South 2 miles 55 W 65 1 to a handsome river 40 yds wide rapid current Entering on the W side N W & S E here the mountains become much lower and indeed for some distance down the river do not deserve the name of mountains - no large groth of timber on the bottoms which are verry small at 2 miles below the tributary stream we Encamped for the night Considerable appearance of Beaver - Set 18 traps

Thursday 28th we did not travel to day in consequence of my indisposition 4 beaver were taken last night - Sent 2 men with traps down the river on the West side - Cloudy, windy unpleasant day

Wednesday 29th decended the river two miles where Fitzpatck & party were Encamped directed them to Encline towards the mountain bg Southwardly where in all probability he would find a small river running along the mountain continued down the river south about 6 miles & Encamped where I had a part of my property cashed and where my indisposition caused me to remain two days - warm pleasant day -

Deposited in cash a above Randavouze creek


2 bags coffee
hams goods
3 pack powder - 11s qt
2 Tobacco -
3 B. Lead
horse shoes
Beads large & small
2 packs sugar -
1 pack cloth with some knives therein -
1 pack 7 doz Knives
Thursday 30 fine pleasant day but was so sick as not to be able to Enjoy it

Friday May 1st 1825. late in the afternoon the cashed was compleated and my health much better we continued our voyge down the river south about four miles & Encamped pleasant weather - the river bottoms have become much larger and covered with green grass but verry little large timber -

Saturday 2nd May proceeded down the river about 6 miles and & Encamped in a beautiful bottom where I made sigh for the different parties to Randavouze, considerable beaver sign - Caught 7 beaver - I left 3 men to set traps the following night - pleasant weather - , the river is uncomonly crooked but its general course about south -

Sunday 3rd decended the river - about 4 miles & Encamped at the Entrance of a [s]mall creek on the West Side which bs. E & W its 60 feet wide, decends (as I expected when directing Fitzpatrck), along the foot of a high snow covered mountain through which the principal river passes commencing at This place - there is much beaver sign on the small river, beautefull bottoms on which is a considerable small willow (and some distance above) large timber - finding this a much more suitable place for a Randavouze I have made marks indicative of my intention to Randavouze here & in consequence of which have given the [interlined: creek the] name of Randavouze Creek The Mountains around present a variety of senery alltogether exceedingly gloomy they are mostly covered with a verry small groth of pine, some of them in ma[n]y places appear to be Entire rock & which has undergone severe fire the gap through which the river Enters particularly which appears hardly large Enough to contain the Water - Windy unpleasant weather

Monday 4th Continue here to day for the purpose of exploreing the small river and setting some traps thereon for Beaver - last night was exceedingly stormy with some rain & snow -

Tuesday 5th We proceeded down the river which is closely confined between two verry high mountains, about ten miles the river is verry crooked its general course to day S S E, at 7 miles Entered a small creek on the West side about thirty feet wide bg E & W. rappid current bottoms were there with willow burch box Elders &c and from all appearances there are many beaver on its head - These mountains present a most gloomy scene They are Entire rock generally of a redish appearance, they rise to the hight of from 2 to 4000 feet out of their Crevices grows a Species of dwarf pine & Ceder the only timber upon them, they are on the one side or other of the river perpendicular or projecting over - on the othur side so steep & rugged as to prevent the passage of a man over them - the rocks that fall in the river from the walls of the mountan make the passage in some places dangerous - windy unpleasant weather

[Compass Courses - May 5]


Randevouze Red mou[ntain?]
W 1/2 W 3/4
S 1/2 S 1/2
E 3/4 S E 1
S E 1/2 S W 1/2 to creek bg E & W -
S W 3/4 S 1/2
E 1 1/2 camp

Wednesday 6th continud our voyge at 1 /2 miles Enters a small creek on the W side the river becomes more confined by the Mountains and the obstructions by rocks in the passage so great as almost to prevent our passage down it - at ten miles there is a fall of 10 or 15 feet in the distance of 150 feet caused by the mountains given away and throughing rock from 20 to 40 feet in diameter Entirely across the river, it is not passable for boats of any description here we performed a portage of 100 yards, reloaded our canoes and proceeded down the river about 2 miles farther & Encamped The afternoon was cold & stormy considerable snow during the night -

[Compass Courses - May 6]

E 3 1/2 mile to creek W 3/4
ENE 1/2 S 1/2
North E 1
S E 1/2 S E 1/2
E 1/2 E 1 1/2 falls 1/2
NE 1/2 S E 3/4 camp & creek
E 1 1/2

Thursday 7th Cold Stormy Snowy morning we decended the river to day about 25 miles its general course S E The mountain continued verry high & rugged until the last five miles when they then became much lower - the channel of the river is yet confined no low ground or timber we passed several places where it was Extremely dangerous but recd. no Injury except shiping considerable quantities of water & wetting our baggage An Indian road passes along the north bank of the river from [interlined: the appearance of] an Encampment we supposed a party of 100 or more has passed along the road about a month since

[Compass Courses - May 7]


S E 1/2 E 1/2
S 1/2 S 1/2
S E 1/2 E 3 1/2 Indian road
S S E 1/2 S 1 1/2
S 3/4 S 3/4
E 1/2 W 1/2
E S E 3/4 S E 1/2
S 1/2 E 1/2
E 2 - S 1/2
S E 3/4 E 1/2
E 1/2 S E 1/2
S 1/2 S 1 -
E 1/2 S E 1/2 mile
S E 1/2 S 1 -
E 1/2 E 2 - East
S E 1/2 S 1/2-
S W 1 -

Friday 8th 3 miles Enters a verry small branch on the N side there the mountains withdraw to the distance of an half mile from the river and the bottoms Enlarge in which are small Willows - we decended the river about ten miles E S E & camped on the E bank -

Friday 8th [sic] proceeded down the river about 8 miles south, some large [deleted: timber] cotton wood of the sweet kind blustering weather with some snow & rain -

May 9th at 3 miles the river enters a third [second] mountain [Lodore Canyon] the bottom above which is an Encampment where some thousands of Indians wintered. Their camps were principally in the thick willows & covered with the bark of cedar oposite & Just below the Encampment on the E side of the river above the mountain Enters a small creek 20 [25?] feet wide E & W: has on it willows and some large timber - did not examine it for Beaver - The Channel of the river is more confined by this than the mountain above the walls of the mountain are perpendicular on Each side of the river and from three to 4000 feet high of a reddish colour the channel [interlined: of the river] is much obstructed by rocks which make it exceedingly dangerous to decend in the distance of six miles from the Entrance I had to perform two portages one of 50 the other 250 yards - we Encamped after making about 12 miles S S W - Raw [? wind ?] unpleasant weather

May 10th mended our canoes which had recd considerable injury yesterday and proceeded down the river - at the distance of 2 miles the river becam so verry bad that we were unable to proceed with our canoes loaded we discharged them and performed a portage of half mile which in consequence of the roughness of the side of the mountain along which we were obliged to pass made it extremely difficult and tedious - these may be well called the Rocky mountains for there is nothing but mountains of rocks to be seen partially covered with a dwarf groth of cedar & pines - violent wind with snow & rain

May 11th The portage of yesterday consumed the whole [interlined: of that] day a short distance below this passage is an other of a quarter of a mile the road for the [deleted: men] porters is much more difficult than that of yesterday - we decended the river [interlined: to day] about 4 miles S W and have 5 portages to perform - at many of these places the river is not more than forty or 50 yards wide Roling over rocks with [deleted: tremendous] [interlined: great] violence some of my men are the most skilfull of watermen or I could not have proceeded at all Even with the Empty canoes we are now destitute of provisions and know not when we shall be able to get where we can supply ourselves -

Tuesday 12th may Our boats recd considerable injury yesterday in passing over rocks. they had this morning to undergo some repares which was completed by 11 Ock when we continued our voyge - we did not proceed more than a mile before we had to perform a portage of 150 yds. which were followed by two others in the distance of two miles the last was the most difficult we have had in the distance of about 300 yards the fall is at least 50 feet our boats as well as cargo had to be taken over the rocks out of the water about 100 yards then let down with ropes to the [deleted: lower end of] foot of the fall this portage had to be performed along the side of a mountain wher it was almost impossible for a man to pass without any burthen. This days progress 3 miles was S W - cool clear weather -

Wednesday 13th. may We reloaded our canoes and decended the river about 8 miles where another River Enters on the south side bg. E & W nearly or quite as large as The one of our decension we performed no portages to day but there are Several dangerous Rapids from our camp [deleted: to the entrance of the] Junction of these rivers here is a remarkable bend in the river a point of the mountain runs for a mile not wider than 50 or 100 yd N & S and the river runs immediately round it in the bend on the south side Enters a small creek N & S the mountain at this point changes Colour to a light sand or nankeen colour and gradually declines there are some small [?] bottoms and some sign of beaver - I call This the river Entering on The south side Mary's River on which is some sign of beaver it no dout heads in the N. E. and has many beaver on it - at the second bend to the left is a verry considerable fall The river is remarkably crooked rapid and dangerous general course from the Junction of the rivers S W - we made this day about 25 miles and encamped on the N Bank. where the mountain with draws on that side from the river to the distance of an half mile, there are some Islands and Small bottoms well timbered with thrifty cotton wood of the sweet kind - here is the first fresh buffalloe sign we have seen for some days indeed since we Entered the 2nd mountain great abundance of Elk we saw last night about 100 Buffalloe but could not kill any, they having got the wind of us, we were so Exosted with the fatiegue of portages and the tediousness of our progress that we crossed many dangerous places [deleted: yesterday] This day without examining them previously and others when in the draft there was no possibility of landing - In passing of the most of them we shiped considerable water - but met with no serious injury - fine pleasant day - my men in fine spirits although nothing to Eat -

May 14th Thursday we proceeded Early for the purpose of getting something to Eat which we accomplished after going about 3 miles - I killed a Buffalo [deleted: in consequence of the many dangerous rapids our progress this day was not more than 6 or 7 miles S W the river is very crooked and the mountains continue verry high and Steep we had one portage to perform of about 100 yds where we Encamped for the night. Clear pleasant weather - ] at 4 miles mountains on Each side of the river and the river again confined to a verry narrow Channel here commences a consider[able] Fall which has continued about six miles where we Encamped general course of the River S W - after we had proceeded on these falls about four miles They became more dangerous, and we with difficulty Effected a landing for the purpose of examining them lower down - I with one man performed that duty as far as the mountain would permit - although The fall continued and the waves were verry high I concluded to proceed with the boats believing that should the river become impassable or more dangerous, that we could discover it, and land the boats - but after proceeding about one and a half mil[e]s we discovered at the distance of about 4 or 6oo yards by the motion of the water &c a verry [deleted: considerable] great & dangerous fall and attempt was immediately made to land the large boat (the small one being in the rear a considerable distance and had fortunate[ly] capsised which had detained here untill the information relative to this fall was communicated to the men) but we were already in the draft to land was imposible I discovered from the appearance of the rocks that our only way [interlined: & that doubtfull] to avoid immedeate destruction was to lay the boat straight with the current and pass in the middle of the river I directed the stearsman accordingly my orders were obeyed & the men performed their duty handsomely, but soon after Entering the heavy billows our boat filled with water but did not sink she was in that situation th[r]own against a rock at or near the foot of the falls, and near a large Eddy, to which by the rock she was inclined and Entered, two of the most active men then leaped in the water took the cables and towed her to land Just as from all appearance she was about making her exit and me with her for I cannot swim & my only hope was that the boat would not sink - the cargo recd great injury some articles Entirely lost & others greatly damaged fortunately I had my powder so secured with bear skins that it was but little injured

[Compass Courses]
May 14th


NW 1/2 W 1/2
W 1/4 S W 3/4 mountans on both sides
S 1/2 S1 -
S E 2 mile 2 - Buffaloe S W 1 -
E 1/2 W 1/2
S 3/4 S W 1/4 fall where we filled

we were detained there drying the cargo untill [interlined: the afternoon of] Friday the 15th when we again proceeded the falls continued but we had no alternative but to decend & with out a knowledge of what was at any considerable distance before us for the walls of the mountain Extended to the edge of the water and them impassable in the distance of three miles we passed several dangerous places where we shiped considerable water and at about 6 miles (when we Encamped for the night. we had a short portage of about 100 yds to perform - fine pleasant weather the mountains declines -

[Compass Courses]
May 15


W 1/2 S W 1 -
S W 1/2 W 1 1/2 portage 100 yds
W 1 -

Saturday 16th. may - Embarked & proceeded Early the river rapid but not at all dangerous at 3 miles the mountains withdraw from Each side of the river and bottoms of considerable size Well timbered. the river is remarkable crooked general course S W we decended this day about ten miles and Encamped at the Entrance of a bold Stream on the N. Side N W & S E about 40 feet wide its bottoms are timbered with small willow and some large Cotton wood about 3 miles above this Creek Enters another of about [deleted: Equal] [interlined: the same] Size and appearance & on the oposite side about half way between thes two Enters anothr [deleted: on the] South side [deleted: 5 W] N W & S E. - high hills on the south and mountains covered with snow at the distance of 2 or 3 miles on the N -

[Compass Courses]
May 16th

W 1/4 N 1 1/2
S1/2 N W 1 1/2
S E 1 - mountain declines W 1/2
S 1 1/2 S W 1 1/2 river N [interlined: Side] 40 yds
S W 1 - [properly: S E] wide bg N & S
W 1 - S S W [properly: 55 E]
N W 1 1 - river S side 50 yds bg N W & S E
W 2 [properly: S] S 1 1/2
N W 1 S W 3 -

Sunday 17th - we remain at the Entrance of the Creek to day to procure meat having understood from two Frenchmen who we met last night that the country below for a great distance is Entirely destitute of game, These men with 20 or 30 others crossed the Country from Toues 4 of whom decended the river in a canoe but finding it so verry dangerous and destitute of game returnd they give a lamentable account of their voyge - they had to live on the skins of beaver which they had [deleted: with them] caught in this neighbourhood. They also inform me that the Indians generally in this country are [deleted: a] hostile desposed and have killed & robed [deleted: a] 15 or 20 men who were from the neighbourhood of St Louis having procured sufficient meat we on [deleted: the]

monday 18th decended the river about 2 miles where we made a cache and deposited the greater part of my goods - the bottoms are well timbered with Sweet cotton wood & small willow [deleted: the bottoms] they afford good wintering grounds -
[Compass Course]


18th May

W 2 - [properly: 1 S, 2 W]

Cash No. 2

2 1/2 KegsTobacco 150 lbs.
14 dozen Knives
2 peaces scarlett Cloth
2 ditto Blue Stroud
3 Bags coffee 200 lbs.
Bale & Bag Sugar 130 lbs.
3 packs beaver 50 skins
pack of beads assorted
& vermillion
assortment of Indian trinkett, mockerson alls do.
2 Bags gun powder 150 lbs.
3 Bars lead 120 lbs.
Bag flints 1000
Bag salt 10 lbs.
pack cloths -
pack conta[in]ing a variety of Indian trinketts

- Ribbons Binding &c
axes hoes &c
about 2 miles below the 2nd little river Entering on the N side after the 3rd mountain Just below say 1/2 mile of a large Island on the left bank at the foot of a small bare [i.e., bar?] a cotton wood tree 10 inches in diameter - Standing alone is about 50 yds above it and immedeately North of it near the bank of the river are two cluster of Bushes the cashe is about 60 feet from the waters Edge N W of two little prickly bushes say 4 feet
from The cash we decended the river [interlined: on the 19th] about ten miles to the entrance of a smaller river on the N. bank thirty feet wide bg N W & S E, great appearance of Buffalloe & Elk - pleasant weather general course of the river to day West but verry crooked one bend of six miles around is not more than 2-yd. across -

[Compass Courses]
May 19th


West 1 - cache S W 1
W N W 2- W 1
N W 1 W N W 1
S 3/4 N W 1
S E 1- N

May 20th Wednesday We descended the river to day about 12 miles general course S W but verry crooked - The bottoms have become large as well as The river, and are Well timbered with Sweet cotton wood The mountains are at the distan[c]e of about 5 miles on Each side the river to which there is a high broken country. [deleted: at and a short distance above] The Cotton wood trees are in these bottoms sufficiently large for canoes, or perogues great appearance of game but none of consequence immediately on the river - This river over flows its bottoms from the place of my Embarcation to this - [deleted: place] - pleasant weather -

[Compass Courses]


S 2 S E 1
W 2 1/2 S W 1/2 Beautifull country
S W 1/2 W 1 -
S 2 - N W 2 1/2 well timbered on both sides river -
W 2 W 1
S 1 S W 2

Thursday 21 proceeded about 4 miles to the Entrance of a River about 30 y wide on the north side the Indian name of this River is Tewinty, Bg N & S - about two miles farther to the wintering place of Mess. Provo &c There found a paper directing his hunters who were in the mountains trapping to decend the river 6 miles where they would find Mr. La clare with articles for them. I consequently decended to that place but unfortunately found that they had left their camp - in pursuit of game as there is none in this neighbourhood - having reason to believe that they would not return sooner than 6 or 8 days, I cached [deleted: my] the cargo of my Canoes and [interlined: get 12 miles - ] on Friday May 22nd proceeded down the river in a wood canoe with three of my men & sent the other 3 to procure game by our return - my object is to find Indians of whom I can procure horses and ascertain the true situation of the country described as so verry mountanous and barren - notwithstanding the the unfavourable account given of the Country we had to Enter it without provisions - warm day S W. 6 miles

Saturday 23rd. last Evening one of the men killed a goose which boiled gave us a good supper we decended to day about 12 miles find the Country a barren heap of rocky mountains - could not kill any thing to Eat found a fresh Indian trail and appearance as if they had Camped & hunted in this Neighbourhood for some days

Sunday 24th may followed some of the Indian roads on which they have Just passed and ascertained that a party were ascending the river I directed the men to return with the Canoe as expediceously as possible - and I followed the hillier [?Indian ?] road, but finding it to pass over such rugged ground was compeled to leave it and select the best way to travel to the place where I had appointed to meet the 3 men sent in persuit of game - every diligence were used by all to procure game without success. we were again this day without any thing to eat

Monday 25th. may. left camp Early with a view of reaching our rendavoze to day two men by land and two by water, determin[ed] to shoot beasts or birds of any kind for food if in our power to do so with all our Exertions nothing was killed - late in the afternoon discovered The trail of foot and horsemen who had but a few hours passed and from all appearances had been in serch of me. followed the trail till night without finding the people.

next morning [interlined: Tuesday 26th] about 10 ock [sic] met with one of the party a Snake Indian he met me with great familiarity and Ease as much so as if he had been accustomed to being with white men all his life calling aloud American, I answered in the affirmative he then advanced and extended his hand, and by signs asked many questions to wit how many men were with me. where they were and [deleted: what was] [interlined: the] object of our persuit in this country all of which I gave him to understand by signs - after passing about an hour with me during which time I made Enquiries relative to The Country Westwardly, his knowledge of any white men in the Country &c &c he departed with a view notifying a band of his nation to which he belonged and who were not more than a days march from my camp of my situation, and to Endeavour to induce them to bring and sell me 7 horses of which I informed him I was in want

The Next day Wednesday May 27th I arrived at the place appointed to meet the men sent to kill Buffaloe, as well as The band of Indians & late in the afternoon two Indians arrived to inform me that in consequence of the mountanous situation of the Country that the Lodges would not arrive sooner than three days; and requested that I would wait their arrival that they would supply me with 6 horses, I consented to wait, the Indians remained until the next morning - [interlined: Thursday 28th] and then started to assist & hurry their [deleted: band] tribe [?] during the last two days we have lived on fish we caught with hooks & lines we find them of an excellent kind of a different Speeces to any that I ever before have seen similar in appearance to our pike They have but few scales or bones, those of which we caught were from one to two feet long, the[y] appared quite a curiosity to the Indians - I shewed them how they were caught & gave Each one a hook & line with which they were much pleased - The country below so far as I decended is an Entirely mountains of rock destitute of timber (Except [interlined: in places] on the border of the river) grass or game, although I was notified that game could not be had in it I expected to find as I had Every day in decending the river found [?] geese sufficient for our subsistance, but to my supprise and regret not one was to be seen - The weather is becoming warm and the musketoes troublesome, of the latter - we may expect (from their Early appearance) an abundant supply this summer -


Names of Animals &[c] in Ute Language

Cothe
Buffaloe
Wancheche
mountain sheep
cabar
horse
Moura
Mule
Parwintes
Beaver
Pant£ta
River
Kib
mountain
Surv pe
[deleted: wood] Cottonwood
Survope
Willow
inch
[probably meaning: This, That or It]
T k¢yan
gun
Topokachaurvase
powder
do - ower
Ball
paiche
mocasons
papponey
Kettle
Cu‚p n mp
[probably meaning: Axe]
Waites
Knife
mounase
Buff robe
O'Weepe
grass
Tar
shirt
Coose
Legings
awkapansine
Scarlett
Larpansine
Breeches
Carnebe
Lodge
0
arrow
arch‚
Bow
Nunke [Nimke?]
Beads
Nosvint
man
Marmont
Woman
Ipatch
[Boy]
Carrennump
saddle
owra
[probably: Pow-rah, Indian Tobacco]
quarp
Tobacco
Ch¢nk
pipe
W‚als
all
pist¢n r
Buttons
parn nar¡gunump
[possibly: Pan-a-mah-gerinump, Finger Rings]
Tumparrap
Bridle
Leguise
Spear
artarp
Sheald
T wip
ground
T rve
Sun
M rtoits
moon
Friday 29th [written over 28th] May Some of the Indians arrived last Evening with their families others Early this morning. I invited their cheifs & Warriors to smoke informed them That I wanted to purchase 7 horses & shewed them the goods that I would give for them. They expressed satisfaction at the liberal offer made them, but such is the use [?] that the[y] make of their horses and the value the[y] set on them that I with difficulty purchased two - they expressed great friendship for the Americans & their conduct verrify their professions, I was much supprised at the appearance of these people I expected to find them a poor lifeless set of beings, destitute of the means or desposition to defend themselves; alarmed at the sight of a white man but to the contrary, They met me with great familiarity and Ease of manner were clothed in mountain sheep skin & Buffalloe robes superior to any band of Indians in my knowledg west of Council B[l]uffs - have a great number of good horses & about the one half, well armed with English fuseeze others with bows & arrows Tomahawks & a number of them were ornamented with perl & sea shels which they informed me the[y] purchased from Indians who lived on the borders of a great lake, none of them have been to the Pasific nor have they an Idea of its extent farther than 40 or 50 miles - finding that I should not be able to get more horses from these people I made my arrangements to start the next mor[n]ing to a camp of 6 frenchmen about 6 miles distant where I was in hopes to procu[re] more horses accordingly on
Saturday the 30th. may I proceeded to the camp of Frenchmen from whom I purchased three horses - and on Sunday the 1st June I started up the river Euwinty about 24 [i.e., 14?] miles & Encamped for the night where I wated the arrival of one of the french men who proposed to purchase some of the good I had with me. -

June 1st & 2nd was Consumed in preperations for my Journey. I purchased 3 horses more making 5 altogether and on

Tuesday June 3rd. Set out for the river Columbia after traveling about ten miles Encamped for the Night as one of my horses appeared verry sick -

The next morning Wednesday June 4th Started Early - and as we were without meat Sent a hunter forward to hunt traveled about 12 miles & Encamped - the hunter killed an Elk & I wounded another but they being on the opposite of the river neither could be had - our course these two day was W N W the river bottoms are wooded with Willow & Cotton wood the River is about 150 yds Wide rapped current [deleted: but] the navigation Clear of obstructions

June 5th Sent two men forward to hunt - proceeded about Eight miles [interlined: West] & Encamped no game was killed to day, my party begins to feel severly the want of food

Friday June 6th At 3 miles the river forks the differences in the see of the branc[h]es cannot be distinguished, I ascended the south branch - (I neglected to note two forks on the N Side one Enter at the distance of 12 miles from the mouth the other about 20 miles) The nothern branch bg N. E. & S. W the other west about a mile thence north 3 miles west 2 miles where an Indian path ascends a ravine or low place & which we persued - the path branc[h]es at an Encampment we followed the left path about 4 miles when it disappeared we then struck across & got in the one more south [i.e., north?] after traveling about 2 miles Encamped in the pine hIlls where we found some water in the head of a hollow This Country continues almost entirly destitute of game we have not been able to kill any thing the ravine above mentioned bg E & W.

Saturday June 7th Enclined to the north to strike a trail that goes direct to the lake on the head waters of the Columbia - after traveling 6 miles met Mr. Provo and party consisting of 12 men who informed me that Mr. Weber had wintered on the south Waters of the Columbia river & had heard of my being in the Country that he had gone over to green river in serch of me - having made an arrangement with Mr Provo for the transportation of my goods that were Cashed on green river to the Waters of the Columbia returned to the river we left yesterday morning and sent a man with them to raise the cache myself and party remained on this river until his return.

June 8,9 10 11th 12th 13 and until the 14th 2 O'ck was consumed wating the return of Mr. Provo and Endeavouring to kill meat sufficient to last us across the mountains but all our exertions to kill any game proved in vain during the time we caught 3 beaver - & fifteen or twenty fish on the arrival of Mr. Provo the 14th prerperations were made for our departure Early the next morning - Mr. Provo brought all our goods and the next morning 15th. we Set out Early traveled about twenty miles [interlined: W] and Encamped on a small branch of the Euwinty, mountanous country on both sides of our rout - to day two hunters killed Each an Antelope -

next morning June 16th we started Early and traveled 12 miles [interlined: W] to the river Euwinty which here bears N & S thence up the same about Eight miles & Encamped near the head of the river - the Mountain dividing the waters of the Lake River & Green Rivers Runs paralel with the river for these last Eight miles distant about 2 miles therefrom

June 17th [deleted: The sources of this river] we traveled over a beautifull fertile valley last Evening through which runs a great number of small streams of [interlined: spring] water This morning we crossed the mountain bg S W & N E and camped on a branch of the lake river bg E & W after making about 15 miles. The mountain is steep and difficult to ascend covered with quaking asp, Cedar, pine, &c &c our course to day was north.

the next morning June 18th we descended the small river on which we camped about 3 miles thence crossed [northwardly] to another of the same about 2 miles thence across a mountan & to a third river of considerable magnitude - [interlined: about Eight miles] not more than 100 feet wide but deep & verry rappid & difficult to cross this river bg E & W - its vallie fertile, thickly wooded with willow and some large timber, has on it a considerable number of beaver - we saw on the valley seven bear - with which I had like to of got in difficulty

we Encamped on the bank of the River & Early next morning June 19 crossed a beautiful fertile vally about six miles to small river about 60 feet wide deep & rappid current through this valley (as the one on the opposite side of the mountan) runs many beautiful spring branches - all those rivers run into the lake which is about 30 miles W of this rout our course yesterday & to day was North - we decended the river about 6 miles & Encamped on its bank near an Encampment of Eutaw Indians,

the next morning June 20th we continued to decend the river, at 8 miles distant Enters a small stream on the E side bg S E & N W. where we Encamped for dinner, then 3 miles farther down this river & Encamped for the night - our course to day was N W - I killed a mountain sheep & one Antelope. Polite a yellow man, killed an antelope,

finding that Johnson Guardner - & party [deleted: had] of whom we are now in serch had ascended the smalle river where we dined we on the 21 June returned and followed their trail, and after traveling about 8 miles East Encamped on the bank of the Creek - the mountans around us to day are not as lofty & rugged as we have had for many days - Buffalow have been here a few days past in great numbers but [deleted: from the Information of] they are traveling East to a mountain dividing these & the Green River waters -

we remain at this Encampment to day June 22nd to recruit some horses. Mr. Provo who went to the lake to trade with the Euteaw Indians returned last Evening

Early next morning June 23rd we continued up the Creek E N E and after traveling about 8 miles we Encamped for the night The hills are beautifully ornamented with grass and flowers - the former Resembling timothy of the most luxurant groth - the land both in the vallys & Hills are fertile a verry high & rugged mountain covered with Snow bg N E & S W, is about 10 miles south of This Encampment and in all probability is the mountain dividing the waters of [interlined: The] Lake river & Green river -

June 24 ascended the Creek on which we Encamped about 4 miles N E Thence Crossed the country N N E to a River running N - about 100 feet wide rappid current - the valley of which is about two miles wide, the borders of this river clothed with willow bitter cotton wood & Cedar - The Country over which we travelled to day is hilly but not so as to make it difficult to travel over - the grass is very fine and the soil generally rich - a mountain covered with snow bg N E & S W is about 10 miles distant South The weather is cold - about such as we have in the climate of St Louis the latter part of October - last night as well as several nights [deleted: before] preceeding Ice made in buckets of water in our Encampment an half inch Thick Encamped on this River for the night

Wednesday June 25th descended the river [deleted: about Eight miles] E N E 6 miles & N W 2 miles and Encamped for the night. the river here [deleted: bg] [interlined: runs] N W [deleted: and] it is about 40 yds wide, deep & rappid

The next morning Thursday June 26 we crossed the Creek and traveled E N E 6 miles to the ridge dividing the waters of green & Lake rivers thence E down a ravine about 10 miles where we found some water - and Encamped - the country here (and forward of us) has a dry white appearance - high hills and but little food for horses - great numbers of buffaloe have lately been through these hills but are now scarce they have traveled from the lake river over to green river -

Friday June 27th. we continued down the ravine N E about Eight miles where it turned E - has running water in it & small willows on its banks - at [?] 3 miles we Encamped on the bank of the creek.